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I find it really hard to purchase a pair of pants that fit me well and are comfortable, so I assumed it would be impossible to sew a pair that I was happy with. However, I did find the Clover capri pants by Colette Patterns and I was willing to try them out because I thought they would be a useful wardrobe item for the summer and moving in to fall.
I used a royal blue denim to make these capris and after prewashing and ironing the fabric, I lay out the pattern pieces according to the layout in the directions. I clearly marked the back of the fabric with tailor’s chalk to identify it easily from the right side which can be confusing when working with denim. I also marked all notches and darts.
I decided to sew a flat felled seam in the in-seam of the pants. It gives a professional looking finish to handmade clothing and is extremely durable. To make a flat felled seam, start by laying the inseams of the pants together with the wrong sides facing, pin and sew along the seam allowance. With a hot iron, press the seam open.
Next, press the seam to one side.
With a sharp pair of scissors, trim one side of the seam allowance to about ¼” all away along the seam.
Fold over the raw edge of the longer side and tuck the fold over the cut seam, hiding it.
Topstitch the folded edge down.
I sewed the outer leg seam with a regular seam. After examining several pairs of jeans and pants, I concluded that there were no firm rules about whether one or both seams can be sewn with a flat felled seam so I sewed the flat felled seam to the inseam. When done, I turned the pants inside out and tried them on, pinning the outside leg seam in exactly the place it needed to be to fit me perfectly.
To insert the invisible zipper, I turned the pants to the wrong side and pinned the zipper tape along the seam allowance with the right side of the tape facing the right side of the pants.
After sewing the zipper to the pants, attaching the waistband facing and pushing back the zipper tape as per the directions, I sewed the facing to the waistband and finished the pants.I am excited to have finished my first pair of successful pants and ones that actually fit better than anything I could have bought in a store. These capris are extremely comfortable and they are not as tricky as I feared they would be!
Clovers pattern by Colette Patterns
Fabric (I used denim. Check fabric requirements on pattern envelope)
Tailor’s chalk or erasable fabric pen