Keeping the garden tidy requires a few deft moves with the right tools, and, time and again over the seasons, shrub rakes are... Read more »
Entire books have been written on the science of making compost, but it isn’t as hard as people think. In five easy steps, you... Read more »
Weeding, pruning, and raking all make a huge difference in the appearance of a garden, but, to finish the job, you have to rou... Read more »
The Fiskars® aluminum shrub rake features a slim head with uniquely tapered tines that are perfect for reaching into tight spac... Read more »
Our Eco Bin Composter features an easy-to-assemble, easy-to-use design that can simplify and speed the composting process. It i... Read more »
Our HardShell® Kangaroo® Gardening Container is perfect for all your outdoor cleanup needs — whether you’re gathering yard and... Read more »
Creating beautiful and personal touches does not have to be difficult, especially when you have great designs to work with! Read more »
Recycle and give a new life to some of your old T-shirts Read more »
Our unique Tag Maker with Built-in Eyelet Setter features an innovative design that makes it easy to create tags perfect for gi... Read more »
By creating a few simple tags, you won’t be caught at the fabric store not knowing what fabrics or yardage you have in your st... Read more »
A brocade drawstring pouch can be a beautiful and luxurious accessory or gift. Read more »
Transform a simple hoodie into a super simple unicorn costume and take the stress and pressure out of making a complicated Hal... Read more »
Perfect for a wide range of sewing and quilting tasks, our Amplify® RazorEdge™ Serrated Fabric Shears sense blade separation an... Read more »
Perfect for a wide range of sewing and quilting tasks, our Amplify® RazorEdge™ Fabric Shears sense blade separation and force t... Read more »
Perfect for a wide range of crafting and mixed media tasks, our Amplify® Mixed Media Shears sense blade separation and force th... Read more »
Try some new punches out and make some cards to celebrate World Card Making Day! Read more »
A personalized Duck Tape® crown is quick and easy to make with your Fiskars® Duck® Edition Scissors. It is a fun way to cele... Read more »
Our Preschool Training Scissors features a special training lever that opens the blades after each cut, helping children learn... Read more »
Children love our Designer Non-stick Blunt-tip Kids Scissors for the colorful handle patterns that make cutting fun and the non... Read more »
Our Designer Non-stick Student Scissors are larger than our Kids Scissors but smaller than adult scissors, perfect for those ol... Read more »
Transform a basic jacket into something personal and unique. Read more »
Create a simple reusable calendar to plan all of your back to school activities. Read more »
Creating a miniature collage with your Fiskars® Duck® Edition Scissors is a great way to use up any last bits of Duck Tape® yo... Read more »
Designed for long, easy cuts down strips of Duck® Tape, our Duck® Edition Scissors feature a non-stick blade coating that preve... Read more »
Designed for all-purpose cutting through a range of craft materials that incorporate glue, tape and other sticky adhesives, our... Read more »
Designed for tight, precise cuts through a range of craft materials that incorporate glue, tape and other sticky adhesives, our... Read more »
They've put everything else away as they've created. The rest of us also have a belief that there's a place for everything. The problem is that place happens to be right in front of them on their work surface. And that's the place for everything we pull from our stash. Long before we're finished, we're grabbing fabrics or papers from our work surface and throwing them in the air to look beneath them for missing scissors, buttons, instructions, or punches.
When I proudly showed my husband my Fiskars Sew Taxi, I said, "Now I'll never lose my seam ripper again!" He replied, "No. Now, not only will you lose your seam ripper, you'll lose all the rest of those tools at the same time." He was right. But I was determined.
I've given up on the idea that I'll ever be one who puts things away as I create. Instead, I've made an apron covered with pockets that I can slip my tools into, rather than lying them on my work surface, as I create. This apron was inspired by one you can make using a McCall's pattern M6095. I wanted a bib front and a ruffled bottom on my apron so I'll be sharing instructions for making one this way. If you feel you need a pattern, by all means, go buy the McCall's pattern! Work with what makes you feel most comfortable.
This is a simple apron that can easily be made to whatever size you need. My measurements include seam allowances and result in a finished apron that is 24 inches wide x 19 inches long. Begin by measuring your waist to determine the width you need to have the apron wrap around your waist as far as you want. If using your own measurements, be sure to add 1/2 inch to each side of each piece for seam allowances.
Backstitch all seams unless otherwise noted. All seam allowances are 1/2 inch.
Cut the following panels*:
(1) 15 in. x 25 in. main panel
(1) 12 in. x 14 in. bib
(1) 5 in. x 25 in. waistband
(4) 4 in. x 31 in. ties
(2) 4 in. x 27 in. for a one-fabric ruffle or (6) 4 in. x 9 in. contrasting pieces for a patchwork ruffle
(1) 5 in. x 5 in. pocket
(1) 6 in. x 6 in. pocket
(1) 5 in. x 10 in. pocket
*remember, if you cut your apron to your own size, make sure you cut the main panel and waistband the same length, cut the ruffle pieces so the ruffle will be at least twice that length, and cut the bib to the desired size. The pockets can be any size you want to accomodate your most used supplies. You might also consider adding loops of fabric to the apron for holding scissors that are too big for a pocket.
Hem 3 sides of the bib by folding the edge over 1/4 inch (wrong sides together), ironing the fold, and then fold1/4 inch again. Stitch to hold the hems in place.
Create the pockets by folding the 4 edges over 1/2" and ironing the folds in place. Stitch the fold that will be the top of the pocket slightly less than 1/2 inch from the edge.
Pin the pockets to the bib as desired and stitch them in place. Stitch close to the edge of the pockets.
Pockets can be made into divided pockets by stitching from the bottom of the pocket up to the top of it. Starting at the bottom makes it less likely for the pocket to buckle as you stitch. Set the bib aside.
Begin the ruffle by stitching the two 4 inch x 27 inch pieces together, right sides together, along the 4 inch side. If creating a patchwork ruffle, stitch the 9 pieces together in the same manner. Hem the bottom of the finished ruffle by folding the lower edge over 1/4 inch, wrong sides together, and ironing the fold. Fold over 1/4 inch again. Stitch this hem in place.
If you don't have a serger to finish the exposed raw edges of your fabrics, using Fiskars pinking shears will prevent the fabrics from unraveling. I've used them on the seams of my ruffle.
Change your stitch length to a very long one and baste along the top edge of the ruffle. Do not backstitch at either end. Starting 1 inch in from the end of the ruffle and stopping 1 inch from the opposite end will make hemming the ruffle later easier. Gently pulling the top basting thread, begin bunching the fabric, manipulating the fabric along the thread as it bunches, to create an even ruffle. Keep ruffling until the length of the ruffle is the same as the bottom edge of the main panel of the apron. Knot the basting thread on both ends.
Pin the ruffle to the bottom edge of the main panel, right sides together. Stitch these together.
Hem the sides of the apron and ruffle by folding the edge over 1/4 inch (wrong sides together), ironing the fold, and folding over 1/4 inch again. Stitch this hem in place.
Center the bib on the apron and baste it.
Create a tie by stitching 2 of the 4 inch x 31 inch pieces together, right sides together, along 3 sides and leaving one short end open. Trim the seams allowances down to 1/4 inch and trim the corners to reduce bulk. Turn the ties right side out.
On the unstitched short side, create a pleat and stitch this in place. The pleated end should be no more than 2 inches high when you're finished.
If your fabric is thin, you may want to add interfacing to the waistband to give it some body. Iron it along the entire length and 1/2 of the width of the waistband. You may have noticed my waistband is made of more than one fabric which is not listed in the fabric cutting instructions. I made a mistake when cutting it and had to add extra fabric to make it long enough.
Pin the edge of the waistband (the side with the interfacing) to the upper edge of the apron, right sides together. Stitch. Fold the opposite edge of the waistband over 1/2 inch, wrong sides together, and iron. This is not shown in the photos. If you don't want to use your seam ripper later, don't be like me and forget this step!
Lay a tie along the waistband matching the edge of the pleated end of the tie with the edge of the waistband. Fold the waistband in half, right sides together.
Stitch the waistband, catching the end of the tie in the seam. Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Turn the waistband right side out.
When you're finished, this is what it will look like.
Finish the apron by either hand stitching the back of the waistband down or top stitching around the perimeter of the entire waistband. Top stitching adds a nice finished look while also taking care of stitching closed the opening on the back of the waistband.
Fill your pockets with your favorite sewing or scrapbooking supplies and you're all prepared to spend your time working instead of searching!
1/2 yard fabric for main panel
1 yard fabric for bib, waistband and ties
1/2 yard for ruffle (or fabric scraps)
scraps for pockets