By Marty Ross
- Ideal for digging in tough soil
- Welded 14-gauge hardened steel blade and 18-gauge steel shaft provide durability that far outlasts wood-handled tools and won’t flex like fiberglass
- Sharpened blade makes it easy to penetrate tough soil or break up hardened dirt clods
- Extra-large foot platform helps maximize force when driving the blade into soil
- Teardrop-shaped shaft profile fits the natural shape and motion of your hand for exceptional comfort and control
- Powder-coated steel resists rust and offers easy cleaning
- Length: 57-1/2"
- Lifetime warranty
- Long handle eliminates sore knees from kneeling and back ache from bending and stooping
- Long-handled Steel Digging Shovel (57-1/2")
- Ideal for composting organic material derived from plants and animals to be used as fertilizer, soil conditioner and natural pesticide in gardening and landscaping
- Collapsible, spring-loaded design makes set-up and storage effortless and offers easy access to compost
- Optimal open-bottom design provides access for worms and microbes to speed the composting process
- Round shape evenly distributes heat during decomposition
- Mesh walls increase airflow to maximize the aerobic decomposition process
- Windproof lid secures compost and protects it from wild animals and pets
- Puncture-resistant coated nylon mesh walls offer lasting strength and durability
- Includes compost bin, cover and four anchoring stakes
- 75-gallon capacity
- Dimensions: 2.12L x 28.5W x 28.5H
- Limited lifetime warranty
- Eco Bin 75gal Compost Bin
A long handle eliminates bending and kneeling, and an extra-large foot platform and sharpened blade make penetrating tough soil easy.
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An innovative design makes composting easy and effective.
Fall is composting season. Autumn leaves are the main ingredient in my backyard compost pile, and mature trees in my yard (and around the neighborhood) supply plenty of material for the rich, loamy compost with which I enrich the soil in my garden beds. No matter where you live or what you grow, a wheelbarrow full of crumbly brown compost, cool and moist, is a powerful gardening tool. When you work a shovelful of it into the soil, it improves the soil's structure, adds nutrients and enhances drainage.
Some people are very particular about making compost, but it’s an easy process. For a basic compost heap, all you need is a bare spot about three feet square. You can make it in a special container, or just pile your raw materials up right on top of the soil.
Start with a mix of autumn leaves and grass clippings. The leaves (which supply carbon) and grass clippings (which supply nitrogen) generate heat as they decompose into a rich, organic loam. The leaves and the grass should be well mixed, and a good way to do this is to mow the autumn leaves right on the lawn — with the bagger on the mower — chopping the leaves up and cutting the grass at the same time. The ratio of leaves to grass clippings in a lawnmower bagger changes with the season: there will be more green (the grass) in early fall, and more brown (the leaves) in late fall. Empty the bagger directly onto the heap, and walk away.
Carbon, nitrogen, air, and moisture are all you need to make compost. A fluffy mix of leaves and grass already contains air pockets and moisture. Leaves and grass alone will suffice, but vegetable scraps from the kitchen — broccoli stems, apple cores, potato skins, banana peels, tea bags, coffee grounds, and eggshells — give the bacteria in the heap even more to work with.
My husband and I keep a garden fork by our heap to toss leaves over the kitchen scraps, so they’re always buried in the pile. Decomposition goes faster if the individual pieces are small, but just about everything breaks down in time. Recognizing a peach pit in finished compost will remind you of the pleasures of summer, and will certainly not lead to a weedy invasion of peach trees in your flower beds.
One of my neighbors makes his compost in a classic three-bin system, with one bin for fresh ingredients, one for partly decomposed compost, and the third for finished compost, ready to use. It speeds things up if you turn the compost by moving it from one bin to the next after a month or so, but my husband and I make our compost without bins at all — we have one pile for “working” compost and one for “finished” compost. The process takes about a year. You can make compost faster if you are prepared to turn your heap frequently. The addition of fresh grass will cause the heap to heat up to as much as 130 degrees and will speed decomposition. We allow our compost to take its time, and find that when the compost is ready, we are, too. We especially like to put in a shovelful every time we plant something: we’re amending and improving the soil in our garden, one hole at a time.